I quite like escargots, which are mainly an excuse to have garlic butter, but the Savoy offers something new. It is baked Dorset snails with sweet garlic, red wine and brioche crumbs. I didn’t like it nearly as much as escargots, finding the brioche crumbs a distraction from the actual snail itself.
It was quite a meal at the Savoy. First came lobster bisque, though I tasted one of the Dorset snails a companion ordered. Then came beef Wellington, medium rare with Vichy carrots. The piece de résistance was the crepe suzette. First butter and squeezed oranges, then Grand Marnier and cognac, then the crepes, and finally […]
I am very partial to very old Madeiras. Because the wine is already oxidised, it improves rather than deteriorates over time. I have enjoyed a pre-French Revolution 1789, an 1815 ‘Waterloo,’ and an 1824 Malmsey, laid down while Thomas Jefferson was still alive. I have just acquired an 1885 Bual, the year when the Marquis […]
I went to d’Arry’s in Cambridge to celebrate the 20th anniversary of my Cambridge MPhil. It was a mistake. I ordered rack of lamb, expecting the usual array of small ribs cooked pink, soft and sweet. Instead I received three mutton chops as tough as old boots and cooked through. I had to ask for […]
I ordered the salmon as my main course for lunch. It was adequate, nice and moist, not over-cooked. I would call it competent rather than special. The potatoes were good, but the salad garnish as bland. Fortunately the club white wine did not disappoint. My verdict is that this is not among the top rank […]
Browns is a standby, a place you go to when no other choice appeals. It is reliable and not very expensive, and the range of dishes means almost everyone can be satisfied. This time I chose roasted lamb rump with potato gratin, crushed minted peas, and red wine jus. The lamb was nicely done, served […]