At a political function in Westminster the other night, a pinot grigio was served in air-conditioned offices. It was quite an appropriate drink, fully chilled, for a sweltering day. People appreciated it as a light and crisp drink, and I think it’s even better in hot weather than fully chilled champagne. When this ran out, we were treated to something a little more involved – a 2004 Kreuznacher Kahlenburg Chardonnay (trocken). At 13%, it had quite a kick. It was a beautiful golden colour and had that oilyness (which you could also describe as creaminess) which you always associate with higher-grade chardonnays. Although it clearly wasn’t, being German, it could well have been from Burgundy. Two tiny sandwiches accompanied my wine diet that evening, one of roast beef and the other a small wrap with tuna and, I think, salmon.