Archive for August, 2009

Presentation

Monday, August 31st, 2009

n-tom

There’s no doubt that the way a plate is presented can enhance the enjoyment of its food.  Arranged with art, a meal can be turned into something special.  And while arrangement doesn’t change the actual taste of the food, it gives us a chance to add aesthetic appreciation to our enjoyment of the taste.  I had dinner with friends at the Maison de Marie, found down a little alleyway off Nice’s Pietonnerie, and close to the Place Massena.

I had the tomato and cheese starter.  The tomatoes, nice tangy ones, came sliced and laid in a wide circle on a bed of virgin olive oil, topped by a neat circle of goat’s cheese in the middle and decorated with a single leaf of basil.  It look good as well as being very tasty.

n-sword

For my main course I ordered swordfish.  It came, cooked beautifully rare, and resting on a bed of rosemary and clams.  Accompanying it were a grilled tomato, a squash and a lemon, plus a loose rissole of cooked vegetables including mushrooms.  The plate looked so elegant, as well as tasting absolutely delicious.  Provence rosé was, as so often, the perfect accompaniment, 

Lindemans Cawarra

Monday, August 31st, 2009

lindemanscawarraThis Lindemans Cawarra was a pretty decent south-east Australian Semillon-Chardonnay blend, in that order. It was a decent 13.5% and had quite an excellent nose – difficult to distinguish from some of the better examples from the same region. There’s a very helpful label on the back with two sliders showing how dry or fruity it is and how light or full-bodied it is. Both are at about sixty percent towards the latter, which you might find a good guide, although personally I think it’s only useful if the indicator is at one of the extremes or bang in the middle. I prefer to describe the flavours. In this case, the body was only lightly oaked but had good buttery depth, and hints of melons and background oranges. The finish was dry and quick, but left a decent tang, making you want more. Give it a go near a warm fire one night, so as not to drink it too cold.

Hotel apples

Sunday, August 30th, 2009

appbram-crumb

When I stay in hotels, I’m in the habit of picking up an apple from the bowls that are often found in the lobby, and taking it back to my room.  Any uneaten by the time I leave are brought back with me to be used at home.  I very often make them into apple crumbles, with the added interest of knowing that the apples came from Moscow, the South of France or wherever.

In this case I had two left from Sweden, and one still remaining from a stay in Hertfordshire.  I cored but not peeled them, chopped them up, and cooked lightly in a little water on the stove.  I tossed a handful of blackberries in with them to give it some colour and tang up the taste.  I added a spoon of muscovado sugar and a level teaspoon of cinnamon.  The crumble mix was 4 ounces of white flour to which a dessert spoon of oat bran and a dessert spoon of oats had been added.  I used sunflower spread as shortening and used a fork against the side of the bowl to work it into a nice crumbly texture.  I baked it for 30 minutes, and served it hot with crème fraiche as a very tasty, and almost free, dessert.

Sweet herring at home

Sunday, August 30th, 2009

swtherring

I returned from my visit to Sweden, and brought back a reminder of its goodies.  I picked up a jar of Mattjessill sweet pickled herring – the sort I like best.  I bought some rye bread, making sure it was the moist, dark kind the supermarket here calls “German Style,” though it’s also prevalent in Scandinavia.  I spread lightly salted butter on the bread, and the pickled herring on top of that.  It made an excellent, if somewhat filling, starter course.  To drink alongside it I served very cold Aarlborg Aquavit, of course.

Moonstone

Saturday, August 29th, 2009

This was a Chardonnay-Semillon blend from 2008, made by Heritage Road, with subtitle ‘Moonstone’. It was south-east Australian and 12.5%. There’s really only one thing to say about this wine: classy. Its flavours were so similar to a lot more expensive Burgundy whites that I was quite taken aback, having paid only £3.99 for it! The nose had those wonderful fresh-hay aromas so typical to this style, the body extended them to some extent whilst also cutting through a delicous toffee-butter flavour with some citrus, and the finish was lengthy and dry. I found mine at Sainsbury’s.

Favourite grill

Saturday, August 29th, 2009

There are many things you can grill, ranging from a cheese-coated mushroom to the latter stage of a cheese-topped shepherd’s pie. My favourite is a chicken leg – drumstick and thigh together. From the fridge, this takes me, on my grill, about eleven minutes on each side, and I prefer to do the underside before the top, so that I end up with an appealing browned top at the end. This length of time also ensures it’s cooked throughout without drying it out, and I keep the oven door closed for two reasons: one, to maintain the heat on the underside of the chicken leg; and two, to keep in the oven some of the moisture that’s released. It works very well with almost any combination of herbs, but precisely where to put them is always tricky. I usually use leafy herbs that can be placed on top after cooking. And salt is almost an absolute for this dish, as without it, the blandness would be overwhelming.

Pickled herring, cheese and raw onions

Friday, August 28th, 2009

dan41
I suppose it’s my own Scandinavian roots, but I really like the classic pickled herring they serve. Add a few pieces of different types of it to a block of cheese and some chopped raw onions and garnish, and you have a satisfying plateful. Swedish cheeses are very mild, but they seem to eat a lot of it, at breakfast, lunch and dinner. Given that I like cheese even more than pickled fish, this is fine by me. I was at a gala dinner in Stockholm’s Stadhus Kallaren (City Hall), and this was the first course. It was followed by fillet of beef, then vanilla ice-cream gateau with blackcurrant sorbet. We drank Spendrups Old Gold Mads vodka (and sang traditional Swedish songs!), then a Rancho Zabacho Sonoma zinfandel from the US, and a French Beaune de Venise Rhone. I’m told the dancing went on until 3 am, but I didn’t stay.

New blend

Friday, August 28th, 2009

chenin-rose
This was new and quite novel rosé, it apparently (from the front of the bottle) being made entirely of Chenin Blanc. Knowing this to be impossible without false colouring (which might well be illegal depending on where it’s from), I made a cursory investigation on the back of the bottle. The label explained that just the smallest amount of Pinotage was used, too, which is jolly good, as South Africa, where this Cullinan View is from, makes both those grapes superbly. As you can see from the photograph, the wine was a reasonable pink colour, about middle-of-the-range. It was also 12.5%, which didn’t really quite cut through the low acid and slight sweetness on the body well enough for me, but the aroma was red berries and the finish dry, as I like it. Apparently, the wine maker had such difficulty convincing the Wines Standard Board that this blend was legal that it took him nearly eight months! Fortunately, it resulted in a relatively interesting wine, mostly like Chenin Blanc but with more roundedness from the Pinotage, in this case, from 2007/8.

Raspberry dessert

Thursday, August 27th, 2009

dan3
One of the lunches served at my Stockholm conference looked too good to resist. It was very small, which added to its appeal. On top was a chilled raspberry compote, set above a light, cold custard. The creaminess and sweetness of the custard perfectly offset the texture and tanginess of the fruit. This is so simple to do, yet so delicious that I’m going to try it myself and add it to rather limited repertoire of desserts.

Cono Sur

Thursday, August 27th, 2009

sauvignon-blancClearly the makers of this wine have something of a sense of humour, given the pun on the name. This one was a Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, at 13% and from 2009 (nice and young – just how I like them). Although not from New Zealand, this was particularly similar to the better ones from Marlborough there, with that full tang which probably comes from it being so young. The nose didn’t quite leap out of the glass as one might expect, but was a subtler version of the usual, perhaps with more apple. The body threw apple out quite significantly, along with some lime, and some lemon, which was weird – I don’t usually find both lime and lemon on the body together. The finish had clear and cutting liquorice, and later a subtle pine-like flavour. Definitely a good buy at £5, but drink it soon!