Archive for September, 2008

Argentine steaks at Gaucho

Tuesday, September 30th, 2008

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My favourite steaks are Argentine ones, and Gaucho in Swallow Street serves some very fine ones. I began with the empanadas, looking like small Cornish pasties, choosing ham and cheese filling. Completely delicious. A couple of my companions tried the grilled palmetto and shrimp salad, and one of us had the yerba smoked beef, described as “sliced lomo flavoured with mate and chimichurri.”

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Then the steak. They bring you a tray of raw ones to explain the properties of each cut and the taste. I chose a churrasco (spiral cut) sirloin with mushrooms, done medium rare. It was excellent, full of flavour, as Argentine steaks invariably are.

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The wine to go with this was Familia Schroeder, a pinot noir from Patagonia in Argentina (it seemed only right). It was dark and fruity, and full of lingering complexity.

More people, more wine

Tuesday, September 30th, 2008

Two Bottles - smalller.jpgA slightly larger group of us than usual went out for dinner, so we had two bottles instead of one. The first, which we mostly ate with fish-type courses, was a Cabernet rosé, from Aimery and 2006. It was crisp and dry, retaining its fruitiness, which included lots of redcurrants. The finish was quick and light, which made sense for this chilled wine.

The second bottle was an Australian Shiraz – the only non-French red on the menu. It was very good, receiving good reports from those eating it with their steak and other similarly appropriate meats. I believe it would be what a lot of wine tasters would call ‘chewy’, although I’ve never quite figured out what that means myself…

Food for free

Monday, September 29th, 2008

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Sunday – a bright crisp morning – not a cloud in the sky! Wonderful for picking quinces!

In Cambridge, quince tress abound in unusual locations … on forgotten allotments & doctors’ surgeries and in local gardens.

I had been invited to pick some ripe quinces – so I called my best friend, Steve, who was at work in his own garden, to come away for ten minutes to pick some of these special fruit. Our first attempt to shake this old tree was unsuccessful. I scaled its inner depths only to discover fantastic lichen growing on the branches. I was able to pick and pluck at different fruit and throw them down into secure waiting hands. This week I will make some great quince jelly to accompany the Irish cheeses I bought on Friday afternoon last week.

Personally, I had never been one for ‘Food for Free’ until I tasted stinging nettles, collected  from Grantchester, a village near Cambridge. Blanched in boiling water, refreshed in ice cold water, and gently reheated & served with Parmesan cheese…

Corked

Monday, September 29th, 2008

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The Portuguese are reported to be fighting back in the battle of the wine stoppers. There was a massive switch to screw caps about two years ago, so it’s near universal for New World wines now. It does cut out the problem of ‘corked’ wine which has been tainted by a bad cork. But the Portuguese who harvest the cork trees have been running a big PR campaign to praise the merits of cork.

“A twist-off top may be adequate for a wine that is going to be drunk within weeks, even months, of leaving the vineyard,” says one of the cork merchants, “but for a vintage wine, tiny amounts of oxygen need to enter the bottle to allow proper ageing. And only cork can do that”. They’ve even hired the Special One, José Mourinho, to urge drinkers to “put a cork in it.”

There’s more at stake than just the wine, apparently, because the cork habitat has some unique animal, bird and insect life, all threatened if the ecology of the woods are not preserved.

Charmed, I’m sure

Sunday, September 28th, 2008

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This was a very dark-fruity wine, with plenty of alcohol, particularly noticeable on the nose. It was 14%, from 2006 and Australian. The name: Horseshoe Row. The grape: Shiraz. The nose had the usual peppery notes, but this time with a bit of cigar smoke. There was a hint of butter to the body, along with all the dark-fruit flavours, and the tannins were slightly harsh, suggesting that it may well be happy improving in the bottle for another few years. I’d be interested to get hold of some of this one again in 2012.

Custard and rice pudding surprise

Sunday, September 28th, 2008

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What caused the damage to this lorry? Custard, ma’am. Exploding custard plus some rice pudding, it’s reported. The truck was carrying 60,000 cans of custard and rice pudding when passers by warned the driver it was on fire. He leapt out of the cab just before the custard and rice pudding started exploding “like gunshots going off.” Luckily no-one was harmed.

I sometime play with custard because if you mix custard powder with a little milk or water, it creates an impact solid. When under pressure it acts as a solid, but as a liquid when no force is applied. You can pull it together quickly into a ball, throw it at a wall to shatter into pieces, each of which then forms a little pool of custard. I was told that if you fire a bullet into a drum of it, it will be stopped in four inches, and will then sink to the bottom.

However, I never thought of using it as an explosive. Wisely, I never use canned custard or rice pudding. You can’t be too careful…

Auerbachs Keller, Leipzig

Saturday, September 27th, 2008

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I was in Leipzig with work last week. My schedule was very light as we only have one client there, which left plenty of free time for sightseeing and enjoying the hotel’s pool and sauna. My colleague had done some research on restaurants and suggested “Auerbachs Keller” in the Mädlerpassage, the second oldest (but best known) restaurant in the city.

I recognised the name from Goethe’s play Faust, as this is one of the places Mephistopheles takes Faust on their travels. It’s also said to have been one of Goethe’s favourite wine bars when he was a student.

Enough of literature though, and to the food. The local dishes of roast meat and potatoes looked a bit on the heavy side, so I went for perch filet which came with a grape sauce, cabbage and rice. My colleague had medallions of deer which came with cabbage, mushrooms and fried potato dumplings. We both drank the local pilsner Ur-Krostitzer Premium, admired the various figures from Goethe’s Faust on the walls, and noted we were considerably younger than everyone else in the restaurant!

Next week I’m off to Moscow, and shall report back on what I find….. 

Goodies from Asia

Saturday, September 27th, 2008

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We are all still exploring the menu at recently opened Asia in Cambridge’s Regent Street. Part of its appeal is the division between Indian sub-continent dishes and those from Southeast Asia and the Orient. This time I mixed the two, beginning with spinach and onion dumpling with tomato and cashew nut sauce from the sub-continent side. It was extraordinarily nice. Then I went over to the oriental side for Phad Talay, seafood with garlic, chilli, bamboo shoots, and holy basil. “Holy Basil!” sounded like something Robin might say to Batman, but it lent pleasant herby tones to the dish.

This is a great place, and I’ve yet to see anything there that I don’t thoroughly enjoy. With this very satisfying meal we drank a Semillon/sauvignon blend called Head over Heels (12.5 percent) from Australia’s Eden Valley. The place goes to a lot of trouble to get its décor and atmosphere right. The decorative flower bowl pictured above) is actually carved from a whole lemon, with carrot or turnip ‘roses’ inside. I find myself wondering if there’s a basement somewhere where oriental ladies spend their day carving such niceties for our entertainment…

Thanh Binh Vietnamese

Saturday, September 27th, 2008

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Back to the Thanh Binh near Magdalene College for Vietnamese food. You have to take your own wine, so we took a Limited Release tempranillo/shiraz rosé at 12.5 percent, reckoning it should go with most Vietnamese dishes.

To start with we had deep fried soft shell crab with tamarind sauce (yes, I know), and deep fried quail in garlic sauce. Both very good indeed. Then came a selection of fish, including king prawns, squid and red tilapia, with pineapple, shallots, bean sprouts and a sweet and sour sauce. There was also a kingfish steak cooked with galangal and coconut water. I really prefer kingfish fillet rather than steak, but it tasted nice enough, and the wine went perfectly with everything. A pretty good meal.

Communism in a glass

Friday, September 26th, 2008

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The Elm Tree is a lovely little pub in the centre of Cambridge, near Parker’s Piece, in a little cluster of pubs including The Cricketers and The Free Press. The beer was Stalin, and interestingly enough, slightly red when held up to the candle. Otherwise, it was a very dark colour at a distance, similar to Guinness. There was the slightest hint of voilets on the nose, and the body was full of bitter dark chocolate and coffee, which carried through the tangy edge to the finish, which had a late cucumber-like flavour. Quite an entertaining pint!