Archive for April, 2008

Calves’ livers

Wednesday, April 30th, 2008

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I’m – apparently – rather odd in my liking of liver. Most people my age have only ever experienced the crap that school canteens serve up, whereas I learnt my liver-liking from my father.

One of the market stalls in Cambridge sells calves’ livers, and they’re both cheaper – about 65p per 100g – and very thinly (5mm or so) sliced. I bought some this weekend, along with new potatoes and mange tout which I cooked in the usual (steamed) way.

I started in a dry plan with some finally chopped onion and, when it was soft, added the liver. I flour it to absorb any blood/juices and to add a crisper outer layer. It took a minute or so each side and, when it was done, I put some of the water from the steamer in the pan with the onions to make a quick sauce. This went onto plates with the vegetables and liver and made a very satisfying – and cheap – lunch.

Finishing off the Normandy ham

Wednesday, April 30th, 2008

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There was still some of that farmers’ market ham left, so I ate it with mustard and a side salad. Into the salad went iceberg lettuce, red, green and yellow peppers, purple onion, vine tomatoes, and sun-dried tomatoes. For the dressing I mixed extra virgin oil with balsamic vinegar. The ham was really good, thick cut and tasty. The mustards were a handmade wholegrain by Chester’s of St Andrews and a French Dijon mustard. Nice. Afterwards I had a piece of my strawberry flan.

Black forest ice cream

Tuesday, April 29th, 2008

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My favourite cake has got to be black forest gateau, mainly because of the contrast between the chocolate and the slightly sour cherry. I first ate it in the spa resort of Baden Baden in south west Germany, and felt far better after one slice of it than after drinking the spa water! I was pleasantly surprised therefore to come across an ice cream version in my local supermarket. It’s made by the Swiss brand Mövenpick.

It was pretty good, with lots of chocolate ice cream and quite a strong cherry flavour. The grated dark chocolate on the top was a nice touch. It was quite rich so I didn’t need much, but thought it a good discovery as we move into the summer months.

Perrier Jouet Champagne

Tuesday, April 29th, 2008

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I travelled to visit friends in York and the weather was magnificent. I decided it an appropriate moment to crack open a special bottle of champagne which I’d been saving since Christmas. It was absolutely delicious and full of fine bubbles. The colour was a deep golden and the nose chocolatey and the familar biscuity. The body had a soft tang and was clearly predominantly Chardonnay. The finish was firmly acidic and very long-lasting, which meant the three of us spent a very pleasant hour with the bottle. Thoroughly excellent!

A different kind of fire man

Tuesday, April 29th, 2008

Yesterday, I went to a barbecue at my friend Jeff Nolan’s house in sunny northern California. It was a beautiful day made more pleasant by Jeff’s family and some new friends.

Even better: Jeff smoked some wonderful ribs for five hours. They’d been covered with a rub and sauce made by Jeff himself. In fact, Jeff made almost all the food we ate, from the wonderful heirloom tomato, basil and mozzarella salad to the excellent potato salad. The man even grew the lettuce for the green salad. It is no exaggeration to say that I have not had better barbecue in my life. Video of Jeff at work is here (warning: it is total Drool TV).

Madsen’s first flan

Monday, April 28th, 2008

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It was pretty easy. First I marinated some strawberries brought back from Normandy. Hulled and halved, they had a sprinkling of caster sugar and balsamic vinegar for a few hours. I bought a ready made sweet flan base from Sainsbury’s for 48p, and two sachets of Green’s fast setting red jelly for 43p (but only used one). I arranged the strawberries on the flan base, then boiled 200ml of cold water with a sprinkle of sugar and the contents of one sachet. I took it off the heat when it boiled, and allowed it to cool, stirring regularly.

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I dipped the pan’s base in cold water to speed the setting, and sure enough, it began to thicken. I poured it over the strawberries and put it in the fridge. Pretty easy, huh? I tried a piece of it with crème fraiche (half fat) on top. It tasted very good, and the spongy base was nice and soggy, as it should be. Not bad for a first effort, I thought.

John Howard Hotel

Monday, April 28th, 2008

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The John Howard Hotel, just around the corner from the Albert Hall, is a Best Western hotel and was where I was staying during a two-day meeting in London.

They must’ve been fairly full and I must’ve been very lucky. My room was upgraded from the standard single to a suite – a separate bedroom branched off from a main room that contained a dining table big enough for four and a fully equipped kitchen! There was even a small outdoor terrace. Too bad I was only there for one night and couldn’t try out the facilities!

I did, however, sample breakfast the next morning which – given the luxurious surroundings of my room – was something of a disappointment. The basement restaurant was nice enough, with piped-in classical music and comfortable chairs; I started off with a large helping of museli (with milk and yoghurt), orange juice, and tea. The cooked breakfast selection was not particularly inspiring: rather-too-liquid scrambled eggs, poor quality bacon, and fairly bland sausages. There were cooked whole mushrooms, however, which adequately lifted the combination. I finished off with a slice of fresh brioche and blueberry jam, before ‘liberating’ a couple of apples for later in the day.

I think I’m spoilt now by home-cooked breakfasts, where the bacon and sausages are of a higher quality and the eggs scramble to my own liking. A lesson, perhaps, for the future…

Just lunch

Sunday, April 27th, 2008

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My lunch in Normandy is often a variation of bread with cheese and either ham or paté. This time it was a demi-baguette with a croissant from the sea-front bakery, some ham and vine tomatoes bought from the farmers’ market in the morning, and two cheeses. One was comté, or Franche-comté, a sweet and slightly nutty cheese which has been made since the 12th century. The other was bleu d’Auvergne, a creamy, moist blue cheese made with a version of the penicillum mould to produce its characteristic blue veins.

With the ham I had Dijon and Arran mustards, and some slightly salted Normandy butter (one of the dairy products for which the region is renowned). The wine was Comte de Valois ‘05 Premières Côtes de Blaye at 13 percent, and seemed about right for the food.

The Falconer, London

Sunday, April 27th, 2008

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Il Falconiere, in South Kensington, was the venue for a conference dinner this week. We had a limited menu, but there was sufficient choice. I opted for beef and avocado to start. It was a good combination – half an avocado, sliced, with three thin slices of cured beef (a vibrant red in colour), alongside it. For the main course, I opted for veal: it came as three slices, each one topped with a slice of aubergine and mozarella, with a tomato sauce.

The veg that accompanied everyone’s meals were sauteed potatoes, cauliflower cheese and green beans. All were equally passable. For dessert, I opted for cheese and was presented with three nice-looking pieces – a very ripe brie and soft stilton made up two of the three. The cheddar, sadly, seemed to have been out of the fridge for some time and was rather sweaty. The tiramisu that many went for looked rather better…

Alfa brasserie, Luxembourg

Saturday, April 26th, 2008

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I was in Luxembourg this week, staying in the very modern Albert Premier hotel near the old town. It was the kind of hotel where anything you touch adds considerably to the bill, so I decided not to risk eating in the restaurant. Instead I had a walk round the main sights, over the very impressive Adolphe bridge and ended up at the Mercure Grand Hotel Alfa near the station. It has a French style bar which looked informal and welcoming, so I went in.

I took a seat by the window and perused the menu over a local Bofferding lager (0.5l). I went for the burger and chips, something I don’t normally eat, and was pleasantly surprised. The beef was fresh and pink in the middle, and came in a bap with fried onions, tomato and even a poached egg. There were too many of the thin cut chips, but the ones I ate were good.

Feeling rather full after that, I ordered a second Bofferding for dessert, and listened to the live piano music. The meal may have cost 20 Euros in all, and given the setting as well, I thought it well worth it. Far preferable to paying several multiples of that back in the rather formal hotel.