Archive for May, 2007

Spice Plaza

Thursday, May 31st, 2007

What I ate today

Originally uploaded by dynamist.

This is our local Indian restaurant in West Hampstead, and the restaurant we have patronised most (with the Banana Tree Canteen coming a close second). We returned on Monday night for a farewell meal, as I was to leave London the next day for another month.

It was a rainy, miserable night, and I was so full up from my lunch that I did not feel hungry until after 9PM. But we ventured out anyway, because I was craving Spice Plaza’s chutneys (pictured). They present you with four: mango chutney (but of course), an onion relish, a spicy onion and tomato mixture, and a green coriander chutney that has lured us back to this restaurant many times over the years. They are all made fresh on site – nothing from a jar appears on this table – and it comes through in the texture and taste.

I could have happily left after the poppadums, but of course we stayed, sharing a starter selection (as always) which features wonderfully crunchy, toothsome onion bhajis and marinated salmon cooked to perfection in the tandoori, as well as chicken and sheek kebab. I was trying to be virtuous, so skipped my usual inauthentic main course of choice – chicken tikka masala, the abominally sweet dish I cannot help but adore – and went for straight chicken tikka. This is chicken, marinated in yoghurt and spices, then cooked in the tandoori. Spice Plaza always has extremely tender, moist chicken (I suspect they know my secret), so I knew this was a safe choice. Antoine stuck with his usual, a biryani, this time opting for lamb…which I taste-tested several times just to make sure it was really, really good. (It was.)

The food will never let you down at Spice Plaza, but the service might: There is one very good waiter, a man in his 30s who seems to be the oldest one there. He is generally attentive, efficient, and friendly. The others are nice enough, but slow and at times incompetent. (We had to walk up to where the waiters were shooting the breeze – twice! – in order to get dessert menus and, later, the bill. No one was apologetic about this.) No one told us until we had laid down our cash card to pay for our meal that their card reader had not been working lately – which would have meant a trip back out into the wind and rain to get cash if we hadn’t had just enough on us.

Antoine wanted to reduce the gratuity severely after this treatment, but I convinced him to give at least 20%. (He thinks I’ve been in the US too long; I think he’s never lived in fear of someone spitting in his food.)

Spice Plaza
212 West End Lane
London
NW6 1UU
Tel: 0871 0757404

Fishmarket in the Great Eastern Hotel

Thursday, May 31st, 2007

fish-mkt1.jpg

Three of us met at Boisdale of Bishopsgate in London’s financial district, then walked across the road to the Fishmarket restaurant a few yards down the street. It’s a Terence Conran restaurant in the Great Eastern Hotel near Liverpool Street Station, and certainly looks the part. There’s a stylish champagne bar just off the street, while further in is a restaurant room decked with marble, staircase and pillars to remind you that you’re in a hotel. There’s a seafood display (partly shown in photo) in front of stained glass windows.

Two of us chose the Uig Lodge smoked salmon to begin with, which rather charmingly came with a 50cl glass of Tio Pepe dry sherry. The salmon came as an oblong slice on a rectangular plate. It was very smokey, with a pronounced tang of woodsmoke. The other had wanted the goat’s cheese soufflé, but backed off when advised there was a 15-20 minute wait for that, and instead chose the endive salad. It was pronounced “nice enough,” though it looked rather ordinary to me.

For the main course two picked “catch of the day” when told it was fish and chips. It was cod, deep fried in a succulent and crunchy golden batter, alongside chunky chips. It was not the best fish and chips I ever had, but it was very good. The fish cakes ordered by the third member of our party were declared good, but the mushy peas were disappointing. I found them too salty, and not made with fresh sweet garden peas as the best ones are.

The wine we chose was a Stella Bella semillon/sauvignon blanc blend from Margaret River in Western Australia. At 13 percent it was full of fruit and lingered with a sharp, clean, acid edge.

Another cheap ‘un

Wednesday, May 30th, 2007

And this time, it shows. Normally, I’m a great fan of Australian Chardonnays, but this one was severely lacking in the usual buttery, complex qualities that I’ve come to expect. Of course, it was only about £3 and is one of those that has the Sainsbury’s brand on it, which usually means cheaper (and can therefore mean lower quality). 13%, though, which I approve of, even though often an Australian Chardonnay can reach 14%. The flavour is hard to pinpoint, but it’s definitely wine…

Breaking my curry fast

Wednesday, May 30th, 2007

I hardly ever eat curry. I never eat it when I’m out, and I never cook it at home. I used to when I was a student, regarding it as a good way of using cheap cuts of meat, but not since, not until now. I thought I’d better use fairly good ingredients so I chopped up some prime Irish rump steak. I flash fried it in the pan to seal in the juices, then added peppers, onion, aubergine and mushroom. I put in a teaspoon of curry powder mixed into half a cup of water, and sprinkled cayenne pepper on top and a few dashes of Tabasco sauce, then a sprinkling of brown sugar, and some raisins and sultanas to sweeten it. I let it simmer, then saved it until the rice was ready. I used wild rice which takes a full 20 minutes to cook, and comes with flecks of dark rice mixed in, and has a distinctive taste and chew. After I drained it, I stirred in a spoon of butter before dishing it out.

The verdict? It was nice. It was surprisingly mild, and sweet to the tongue, but with a distinct bite at the end. I guess I’d done it about right because the ingredients still had their own distinctive tastes, instead of merging into one, which happens if you let it stew too long. It made a pleasant change, but most times I think I’d prefer to have the steak grilled rare, with sautéed vegetables alongside.

Easy option

Tuesday, May 29th, 2007

I almost never buy frozen food (apart from sorbet), but couldn’t resist the sui mai pork dumplings from my local Thai supermarket. There were no fresh ones, so frozen it was. I didn’t have much time, so if all I had to do was steam them so as they turn out like the photo on the front of the pack, then all would be fine.

Of course it wasn’t quite as simple as that. Having steamed them for the recommended twelve minutes, the meat wasn’t cooked. I continued for another five minutes or so, and then carefully put them on my Japanese serving dish. Despite great care I couldn’t prevent the skins from breaking, and suffice it to say the end product did not resemble the perfection shown on the front of the pack.

The taste wasn’t bad, especially with a bit of soy sauce, and the meat was tender. The main problem was the skins being too moist having been steamed for a long period. Next time I eat dim sum in a restaurant, I’ll ask them how to do it properly!

The wine was good though and went well with the food. It was a 2006 Oyster Bay Merlot Rosé (13%) which I had not seen before. I bought it as part of a mixed case from Majestic Wine Warehouse, and saved a couple of pounds on the recommended price of £7.49. I have enjoyed Oyster Bay reds and whites in the past, and think their rosé is one I shall enjoy regularly over the summer months.  

Easy lamb

Tuesday, May 29th, 2007

I’d intended to eat out, but when I tried to book the restaurant said they could only give me a table at either 6.30pm or 9.00pm, but not at 7.30pm. It wasn’t that they didn’t have a table, just that they would only let me book it for those times. This is always a very bad indicator, in that it usually means the convenience of the management is being put before the wishes of their customers. Most people don’t want to eat at those times. I don’t mind being told when I book that they’d like me to finish by 9.00pm, say, or asked if I’d mind taking coffee in the lounge. What I object to is being ordered to eat at unsuitable times because the management finds it convenient. I laughed in derision as I declined, hoping they thereby acquired a little customer feedback.

Instead I cooked a very easy lamb dish. I pricked two lam leg steaks and rubbed in rosemary. I spread a teaspoon of honey on each, and wrapped them together in greased foil. They went into a hot (180) oven for about 16 minutes. Meanwhile I put chopped peppers, onion and aubergine into a lidded pan with a dollop of butter and cooked them until they browned a little at the edges. The lamb came out moist and pink, with the rosemary flavour suffused through it. The whole meal was pleasantly sweet, both lamb and vegetables. Alongside it was Lindemann’s Tollana 2005 semillon-chardonnay (13 percent) from SE Australia, a very competent and pleasant wine. The meal finished with fresh blueberries and a spoon of crème fraiche. The restaurant wouldn’t even have been in the same league.

French toast

Tuesday, May 29th, 2007

What I ate today

Originally uploaded by dynamist.

Watching some guilty pleasure TV on Sunday night (Wife Swap, if you must know), I saw some children cooking French toast for their breakfast. This is how suggestible I am: As soon as the show was over, I made French toast for supper.

Sadly, I decided to go the route of a more virtuous French toast, making it with wholemeal bread. Truth be told, this is nowhere near as nice as proper French toast, but it did go a long way toward satisfying my craving. Also, it’s an easy and cheap thing to make, though I would not bother if there wasn’t any maple syrup in the house (luckily, we had just enough for two servings).

Whisk two eggs with a few tablespoons of milk. You can add a bit of sugar (or Splenda, which I used) and cinnamon here, too, but those are optional and depend on your sweet tooth and taste. Soak (preferably very dried out) slices of bread in this mixture, then cook for about three minutes each side in a hot pan. Do butter the pan if it’s not non-stick. Serve with maple syrup, plus more butter if you’ve got the room in your nutrition bank.

In an ideal world, with calories, fat, and sodium no object, French toast would always be eaten with American-style breakfast sausage – links, not patties. You’ll also need at least a litre of water to rinse all the sweet and savoury out of your mouth afterwards, and you won’t want to eat for many, many hours. Guilty pleasure TV as inspiration should not be necessary.

Courgette, leek, and Nori seaweed

Monday, May 28th, 2007

What I ate today

Originally uploaded by dynamist.

I strongly suggest not telling people that there is seaweed in this until they have been greedily munching away for a few minutes.

Chop the white bit of a large leek. Slice the white bits of a few spring onions. Cook together over medium heat until soft. Add two diced baby courgettes and two small piri-piri peppers which you have de-seeded and minced. Season with salt, stir, and cook until the courgette is as soft as you like. Turn off the heat, and stir in a heaping dessertspoon of Nori seaweed flakes. (These add no real flavour, but plenty of nutrition.)

This went down well, as did the red Camargue wholegrain rice we had with it. I think I prefer the red rice to brown rice, though they are both equally as good for you. Antoine tells me that the Camargue region of France is quite marshy, so exactly the sort of place you would expect to produce great rice. I suppose I will have to stop attributing his affection for riz to some undetected Asian gene in the family tree.

Big day out wines

Monday, May 28th, 2007

With the dinner, we had wines from Chateau Franc Patarabet from the years of 2004, 2001, 2000 and 1928. It was thoroughly fascinating to compare them. It’s called ‘vertical tasting’ when you stick with the same chateau or region and compare years. All of these wines were silky smooth, exuding class through texture and their balance. Of particular note was the 1928 bottle, with cigars, woodshops, plums and cheese on the nose, pencils wood, good fruit and sherbert on the body and a finish that was fudge and included the pencils. The tannins were still quite firm and, remarkably, the wine was still a good solid purple colour. I would have thought, after all these decades that the wine would be undrinkable, but it was by no means in that direction.

The other wines from more recent vintages were similar (after all, they’re made from the same vines in the same place) but fresher, more vibrant and fruity and with harder tannins. I preferred the 2000 overall, but only by a whisker compared with 2001. The 2004 was a good wine, but clearly immature, with its massive tannins, really deep colour and fruity aromas. The other wine of the day was from the vineyard we visited whilst on our travels. Chilford Hundred it’s called, from 2004 and described as ‘dry white wine’. We were told the specific name of the grapes used whilst there, tasting, but I’ve forgotten them because they were complicated German grapes which I’d never heard of before. It was quite light and fruity, with peachy aromas. The body continued this without much in the way of change, then the finish was a bit aniseedy. It was 12% and £6.95, so for my money, I’d stick to the colourful young things from Australia that you get at Sainsbury’s rather than making a special trip for this English wine, apart from the first time, of course, just to convince yourself.

Château d’Arsac Margaux 2001

Sunday, May 27th, 2007

Dinner with friends

Originally uploaded by dynamist.

This is one of the wines enjoyed with our dinner last night. I passed, being almost two months into teetotalness, but I did wonder what Paul would have made of it…