Dorset snails

I quite like escargots, which are mainly an excuse to have garlic butter, but the Savoy offers something new. It is baked Dorset snails with sweet garlic, red wine and brioche crumbs. I didn’t like it nearly as much as escargots, finding the brioche crumbs a distraction from the actual snail itself.

Savoy in style

It was quite a meal at the Savoy. First came lobster bisque, though I tasted one of the Dorset snails a companion ordered. Then came beef Wellington, medium rare with Vichy carrots. The piece de rĂ©sistance was the crepe suzette. First butter and squeezed oranges, then Grand Marnier and cognac, then the crepes, and finally […]

Very old Madeira

I am very partial to very old Madeiras. Because the wine is already oxidised, it improves rather than deteriorates over time. I have enjoyed a pre-French Revolution 1789, an 1815 ‘Waterloo,’ and an 1824 Malmsey, laid down while Thomas Jefferson was still alive. I have just acquired an 1885 Bual, the year when the Marquis […]

Pickled herring in Stockholm

I was in Stockholm for a conference, and enjoyed Swedish cuisine. I especially liked the pickled herring they served at a smorgasbord banquet. It’s not remotely vinegary. On the contrary, some of it is very sweet. It goes superbly with Aquavit, a Scandinavian spirit served very chilled.

Savile starter

London’s Savile Club featured a rather nicely done starter when I went for lunch recntly. It consisted of fresh figs served on a bed of crumbled sheep’s milk cheese on a lightly toasted base. It was very good indeed. I followed it up with a main course of confit of duck, accompanied by a white […]