March 16th, 2010
Not in the sense of dead, of course, otherwise this blog would be an effective means of communicating with the afterlife (or the undead, thinking about it, given the late craze about vampires), but in the sense that I was about five minutes late. I know to most people that doesn’t sound like much, but to me, that is incredibly rude; it forces people to wait, often alone, but at least I messaged ahead. On to St John’s Chop House and the food…


I started with the beetroot soup. It was very thick, like a purée, but quite delicious, with a bit of spicy bite to it. I ate only half, it being so filling and knowing that I’d already ordered a second course. My patient dining companion had the scallops from the specials menu, and he said they were excellent. The two photographs above show each of those dishes.

We then moved on to our main course, which we both agreed was pretty damn good. I had the goat cheese (see photograph above), walnut and rocket salad, and although the online menu suggests there was watercress in it, I can’t admit to have noticed any during the eating. It was good; well-balanced dressing, beautifully tangy cheese. It was, however, far too big for me after that filling soup.

My dining companion went with the ’specials’ menu, and chose plaice, which came with sautéed potatoes with the skins still on. I’m told it was very nice. (See photo above.) Given our selections of food, we drank the Millbrook Chenin Blanc, which is from South Africa (the best place for it). It worked rather well, certainly with my main course, the soft, smoothness of the wine offsetting the tanginess of the salad. I’m sure it worked perfectly with the scallops, too (but I wasn’t so impertinent to ask).
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March 15th, 2010

I went out to a rocket-launching day with members of Cambridge University Spaceflight. The field near Elsworth was home for the day to the East Anglian Rocket Society. It was quite a cold, if clear, day so a fairly quick and nourishing lunch somewhere nearby was called for. A couple of us dropped in to the White Swan in nearby Connington. It does great pub food with quite a good range of choices. I went for a simple sausage, egg and chips, and found all three ingredients very tasty. My lunch companion said nice things about their chicken curry, too.

Suitably fortified against the cold, we drove off to join the others and launch rockets.
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March 15th, 2010

I bought a brace of pheasant on the market some time ago, and froze one. Having defrosted it, and thoroughly washed it, I roasted it and served it with roast potatoes, parsnips, and carrots. I heated the leftovers the next day and enjoyed it with mash, and the scraps of meat went into a risotto on the third day.
Then came stock: I defrosted the guineafowl bones and put both carcases, along with onion skins, carrot peelings, bay leaves, and peppercorns into a pan with water. And then I forgot about it. It nearly burnt dry, but was rescued just in time: with excess water, I was able to make a nice quantity of stock, and the near-burning made sure it was a rich brown colour. Fantastic.
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March 14th, 2010
Being rather hungry, I thought I’d make an omelette. There’s no picture, as it looked like any other omelette. What I didn’t expect was the amazing flavour of it (even if I do say so myself). Firstly, I chopped a tomato into small pieces and fried them until they were very soft. In the meantime, to a bowl, to two eggs I added a splash of milk, freshly-ground, black pepper and salt to my tastes (which I know from previous attempts), some sliced and chopped smoked ham, grated medium-strength cheddar and about one-fiftieth of a freshly-grated nutmeg. This I then mixed together, being sure that the yolks broke and mixed well, and I added it to the tomatoes in the pan. I mixed the ingredients again to blend the tomatoes throughout and cooked it on a low heat for about seven minutes, stirring once in the meantime, about half-way through, as my pan was a deep one (because I don’t own a non-stick shallow frying pan). When I served it, I put alongside three silver pickled onions (those small ones) and enjoyed it whilst watching the 1pm news. It was excellent, and thanks to the nutmeg, left such an excellent taste in my mouth that I’ll certainly use nutmeg again next time I make an omelette!
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March 14th, 2010

I decided to cook duck breast in black cherry sauce, but couldn’t find any duck breast and settled instead for duck leg. I couldn’t find any cherries, either, so I decided to use tinned ones rather than abandon the enterprise. I halved ten cherries and put them in a pan with a little butter and oil. I added half a cup of white wine, about half a level teaspoon of cane sugar, and a few twirls of black pepper. I mixed a teaspoon of cornflour to a paste with water, and stirred that in. I allowed it to reduce to a fairly thick sauce, then added a glass or port and reduced it again. By now it tasted superb. I pricked the skin of the duck legs and rubbed in sea salt and pepper. Then I put them in a frying pan skin side down to crisp up the skin. I gave them 10 minutes at a medium to low heat, occasionally blotting up the fat which ran out. I then put the legs into a glass baking dish and gave them a further 15 minutes in a hot oven.

While this was going on I served my first course, a tomato tart. I rolled out a sheet of puff pastry into a rectangle, scored a line three-quarters of an inch from each edge, and pricked with a fork inside those lines. I spread green pesto over the inner rectangle, then arranged slices of cherry vine tomatoes. I seasoned with salt and pepper, added torn basil leaves, and brushed the edges with beaten egg before giving it 20 minutes in a hot oven. It made an excellent tangy starter.
Meanwhile I prepped the vegetables to accompany the duck. I cooked a chopped field mushroom lightly in butter, then added cut-up new potatoes and peas to simmer briefly with a little olive oil and butter. The vegetables and the sauce were brilliant, but the duck would have been better as breast rather than leg. The problem is that I like the duck quite rare, which is easy to do with breast meat, but if you cook a leg reasonably rare, the meat tends to stick to the bone instead of coming off easily. Next time I’ll cook it rare if it’s duck breast, but will cook duck legs rather more.
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March 13th, 2010

I like a good risotto, and it’s a good way to use up roast poultry. This one was another chicken risotto.
But why brown? We’ll see quite soon. First, I lightly sautéed an onion till it was soft and then added sliced mushrooms and the chopped chicken. Into this went rice and then home-made stock: this is where the colour comes from – my latest batch was a rich brown.
It had twenty minutes on a low simmer, until the rice was pretty much cooked. Then in went frozen peas and chopped emmental (as the most suitable cheese I had to hand) for a few minutes for the former to warm through and the latter to melt.
It was, as always with my risottos, rather good – a good mix of colours, flavours, and textures – with enough left for lunch the next day.
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March 13th, 2010
Again in Cambridge, this time we started with a shared plate of chargrilled ciabatta which had been rubbed with garlic, drizzled with olive oil and topped with tomatoes, basil and creamy ricotta. Perfectly, it came with two pieces of said description, which made life somewhat easier.

For the main course, I had the beef carpaccio and rocket salad (see above), which, I have to say, was magnificent. The beef couldn’t have been thinner without not existing (well, nearly…) and the stuff in the rocket salad went extremely well together, along with the right intensity and quantity of dressing.

My dining companion had the South Coast ‘fritto misto’ (see picture above) which was crispy fresh fish, using (as Jamie says on his menu) the fish we ’should’ be eating, which was served with a zesty tartare sauce and a slice of these things called ‘Amalfi lemons’ which I must investigate at a later date.

Because of the rather long wait, despite arriving just after 7pm, we went to the bar first and enjoyed some excellent dry rosé (in my case) and second some not particularly good sweet rosé, but we didn’t send it back because they’re new and were extremely busy. With the meal, we drank the wine in the above picture, which was called ‘Barbera d’Asti Ca’ del Matt’, and stood good ground at 13.5%. It was from 2003, and yet surprisingly cheap for a restaurant, at £18.40 for the bottle. It was relatively soft, but with the odd undercurrant (pun) of smokiness and a rounded finish which satisfied our tastes nicely. Definitely going back, but next time won’t bother with a drink elsewhere first; we’ll just have one at the bar whilst we wait for our table. (They don’t take bookings.)
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March 12th, 2010

I’d roasted a chicken and made stock from the carcass, but I’d been slightly slap-dash about it and the stock was far too pale and dilute.
So, the next day, I put the majority of the stock, having skimmed the fat off, in a pan to reduce – I eventually took it off when it was a quarter of its original volume. The skimmed fat, along with some of the stock, went in a pan with flour, rosemary, salt, and pepper to thicken into a sauce. At the same time, I put two small potatoes in the oven to bake.
About 45 minutes later, I put some of the leftover chicken into the sauce – somewhat worryingly, it was still rather bland at this point. I also set some vegetables to steam over the reducing stock. After the potatoes had an hour, everything was ready – the sauce had finally picked some flavour from the chicken (and the stock had reduced down to a tasty brown liquid.) It all went onto a plate, and was actually pretty good – especially considering the near-total lack of effort on my part…
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March 12th, 2010

I bought loin of cod, line caught, so it was unquestionably responsibly sourced. I prepared a marinade of dark soy sauce and honey, and gave the pieces of fish 4 hours, with occasional turning and spooning the marinade over the top. To bake them I put them in a greased foil dish and covered the top before baking in a 170 oven for 20 minutes. The left-over marinade went into a pan to be reduced just before serving, in order to give a pouring sauce. While the fish was cooking I served a home-made soup using up my last leek for a leek and potato soup.
I sliced new potatoes and alternated them with slices of cherry vine tomatoes, and seasoned with black pepper and sea salt, and with torn fresh basil on top. Just before serving I drizzled extra virgin olive oil along each row. It worked well. The fish was soft and delicious, with the lovely dark/sweet contrast of the marinade. Definitely a nice way to eat cod. With it I served a First Cape shiraz rosé (12 percent).
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March 11th, 2010

A year or so ago I bought a book that was the sensation of the food blogging community at the time: Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day, although it was only recently that I actually got around to making the bread!
The basic principle is to make what is, effectively, self-kneading dough, by making a very liquid dough that rests in the fridge for weeks at a time. So, I made the dough – it rose more than I expected, which caused small problems, but the next day I made a loaf. It was too wet, in my opinion, and I couldn’t shape it properly – you’re supposed to pull the edges around the dough to align the protein strands. In the end, it came out pretty good – tasty, and pretty easy.
The wetness and shaping issues I think are my fault, not the recipe. I see now that instructions and videos are available on the book’s website – so I’ll follow a few of those before next making the dough. The four loaves I made from the first batch were tasty enough to merit it!
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